Frequently Asked Questions
Diagnostic Mold FAQs
We all like to think that we can figure this stuff out on our own. From our experience, we find many of our clients know enough to be dangerous. This isn’t like changing the air filter in your furnace. You are dealing with an organism that is secretive, potentially harmful to your health and actually can fight back! If you can relate to two (2) or more of the following items, it’s time to contact a local mold professional and get the answers you are looking for.
Mold Have You Worried?
Moisture
First, was the moisture intrusion source(s) corrected? If moisture is under control, a Clearance Test should be performed which is a combination of factors that include a visual inspection, review of remediation protocol, sampling, etc. Only then can you get a good idea if the area was properly brought back to normal fungal ecology.
Very! Moisture drives all biological processes in a built environment and the way moisture moves through a home can help explain what is going on. Take older / historic homes, the moisture issues can be very complex.
Not as much as you think. Depending on the scope of work and if demolition is involved it can be affordable if you catch the issue early enough. But long going prolonged moisture issues almost always cost more than you would think.
Mold is a product of hydrology, humidity and moisture. Was the source of water that caused the mold addressed as part of your remediation? We know that mold and water go hand in hand. If your environment’s hydrology are not properly managed, the mold will return. We have Certified Hydrologists on staff to ensure that the source of water is appropriately addressed to ensure any future mold growth is mitigated.
Many times moisture makes its way into the wall cavity and stimulates molds to grow. Given time they will start to “Bleed Through” the outside wall and at first look like a small dark area. If the moisture source is not obvious, further investigation by a pro is recommended.
Cleaning mold often does not address what is causing the mold to grow in the first place. And that’s what we call the “Moisture Trigger”. While we often think of moisture as a “puddle”, in this case, molds don’t like puddles, they like elevated humidity which is hard to detect on your own. Better call a mold pro.
From $35/LF to $75/LF depending on site conditions, mechanics and access.
The deeper you go the more expensive it gets. But generally speaking, keeping top of French drain 6 inches below grade is often adequate.
To dewater wet areas of your yard or to move water away from your basement to prevent flooding.
Before installing a French Drain its always a good idea to know the depth to the water table, the depth to the seasonal high water table, the soil type. topography (pitch) of the yard area and where to discharge the water to.
Best way to unclog a French Drain is with high pressure water. Shoot it in on cleanout end and watch debris flow out. If doesn't work may need a "snake" to break up the clog. Corrugated pipe is difficult as debris gets trapped very easily.
French Drains are installed by digging a trench deep enough to burry your pipe at least 4 inches below grade. The slope of the trench should be 2% (or 1/4 inch per foot) to be able to move solids that collect in the pipe. You will want a clean-out and good area to discharge to along with good draining material to pack in around your pipe so water can get into the pipe easily.
In isolated rooms like berooms the best way to control moisture is by improving ventilation. For example installing passive air vents in the walls or doors is often all that you need. If there is a bathroom attached with an exhaust fan setting the fan on a time to auto run works well.
Simply sink a large sturdy plastic bucket in the ground that has a lot of small 1/2 inch holes in it. Pack the area around the bucket with gravel and line the area to keep fine dirt out. Water will collect in the bucket where a mechnical pump will sit. As the water level rises, the pump will engage and remove the water. The bigger the bucket, the less your pump has to engage thus extending the life of your pump.
From $35/LF to $75/LF depending on site conditions, mechanics and access.
Odor
Many folks have (or develop) sensitivity to molds and chemicals that are immediately noticeable. Other times it takes longer as we age and our immune systems start to decline. Everyone is different. But when one room in your home gives you such immediate discomfort there almost always a hidden microorganism to blame. Better bring in a mold specialist.
Actively growing molds have a distinctive musty aroma associated with their life cycle. Picture walking into a basement and what aroma is typically associated with that environment. If you smell smoke, there’s almost always a fire. A pro would help you determine what is going on with that aroma.
It’s not unusual to have become so de-sensitized to the aromas associated with your home after living there for decades. Many times folks new to your home will notice the unusual aroma and mention it to you. You should hire a professional and investigate this further as things are not as they always seem to you.
Best way to remove odors is to remove the source. But odors are often absorbed by surrounding building materials and can be difficult to address. To address those areas can use a deodorizing treatment such as a biocide, hydroylation, ozone, etc. It just depends on the type of odor and how long it ahs been around.
A musty smell is often a sign of a larger moisture challenge. Manage the moisture and the odor often dissipates as well.
Mold
Remodeled homes often wind up concealing a lot of the clues we look for when we assess for mold making the issues often difficult to find. Take for instance an older 1940's home recently renovated where the attic was converted to a master bedroom (now we can't see the underside of the roof) and the rear porch was enclosed (has an inaccessible crawl space and enclosed cathedral ceiling with failing ridge vent). More time and some invasive investigating / sampling is often necessary.
Scrubbing molded areas with a detergent and water and then drying the area thoroughly often works for small areas of mold. Using bleach is not recommended as it may cause more harm than good. But there are instances where using a Biocide may be called for.
Many folks have (or develop) sensitivity to molds and chemicals that are immediately noticeable. Other times it takes longer as we age and our immune systems start to decline. Everyone is different. But when one room in your home gives you such immediate discomfort there almost always a hidden microorganism to blame. Better bring in a mold specialist.
First, was the moisture intrusion source(s) corrected? If moisture is under control, a Clearance Test should be performed which is a combination of factors that include a visual inspection, review of remediation protocol, sampling, etc. Only then can you get a good idea if the area was properly brought back to normal fungal ecology.
Simple cleanses and spot remediation can be completed in a few hours where more elaborate remediations and restoration might take weeks. It depends on the impacts to the home and the occupants.
Mold is a product of hydrology, humidity and moisture. Was the source of water that caused the mold addressed as part of your remediation? We know that mold and water go hand in hand. If your environment’s hydrology are not properly managed, the mold will return. We have Certified Hydrologists on staff to ensure that the source of water is appropriately addressed to ensure any future mold growth is mitigated.
Many times moisture makes its way into the wall cavity and stimulates molds to grow. Given time they will start to “Bleed Through” the outside wall and at first look like a small dark area. If the moisture source is not obvious, further investigation by a pro is recommended.
Actively growing molds have a distinctive musty aroma associated with their life cycle. Picture walking into a basement and what aroma is typically associated with that environment. If you smell smoke, there’s almost always a fire. A pro would help you determine what is going on with that aroma.
It depends. It’s been our experience that if you are planning on selling your home in the near future, yes! Mold is on everyone’s mind these days and knowing if you have a mold issue can only be determined by a mold test. If negative, the test can be used to assure prospective buyers that there is no mold to worry about.
Who did the test? If one of those over the counter tests were used, they recommend that you need a mold professional to interpret the results. Any mold pro should be able to tell you about the molds detected and the water trigger, but you might need to do an additional control test to see if your molds are beyond Normal Fungal Ecology and pose a health risk.
Yes! Mold is a natural part of our environment where we like to see normal fungal ecology. But so are bears, ticks and poison ivy. You wouldn’t want to see any of them in your house now would you? The same goes for mold, there are some that we just don’t want to see in our homes at any level due to the potential health risks.
Molds and the byproducts of their life cycle (gases known as mycotoxins, odors & mold spores) are often airborne throughout the home. Materials (like clothing) are porous and absorbent and tend to collect (and concentrate) these items that often have a very distinct aroma. You might not be aware of it as we tend to become desensitized to the aroma the closer we are to it. By your family and friends will smell it. Better call a mold pro.
There are many allergy-like symptoms (like sore throats, sneezing, itchy / watery eyes, sinus infections, headaches) that also come from mold exposure. So ask yourself, when you leave the suspect area, do your symptoms get better? If so, some air tests to identify possible mold contamination would be a good idea.
Our nasal cavity and sinus chambers are our primary line of defense in conditioning air as it enters our bodies. Persistent sinus infections are often tied to a hidden environmental stressor that re-exposure to has detrimental health effects. Address the issue before it spreads beyond your sinuses.
We often hear terms like “winter allergy”, “seasonal allergy” “winter asthma” and “overactive sinus” when discussing seasonal allergies. What most folks don’t realize is that fungi thrive when plants thrive where their spores mix with other airborne particulates like pollen, dust, etc. It’s easy to think it’s seasonal because it’s so apparent. But from our experience, mold spores are most likely to blame when the term “seasonal allergy” starts getting thrown around.
It’s always a good idea to be well informed going into your home’s sale. Having an inspection done yourself is a good way to pinpoint potential issues and be prepared for buyers concerns.
Cleaning mold often does not address what is causing the mold to grow in the first place. And that’s what we call the “Moisture Trigger”. While we often think of moisture as a “puddle”, in this case, molds don’t like puddles, they like elevated humidity which is hard to detect on your own. Better call a mold pro.
We all have had those stubborn leaks. They tend to show up only when the rain hits the house a certain way then presto – a puddle or damp spot in the wall. Molds are uniquely adapted to exploit these intermittent micro-climates. Before the mold issue becomes intolerable, better call a mold pro.
Mold growth of this nature is often tied to elevated humidity and poor ventilation in your closet. If you exercise frequently putting your sneakers away damp could be the culprit.
The term “Black Mold” or “Toxic Black Mold” has been attributed to a dark / black mold (called Stachybotrys) that has been demonized in the media as a result of some very well-known lawsuits. While Stachybotrys is known to produce “mycotoxins” that can adversely affect human health, it does not fare to say it is toxic.
While the State of New Jersey does not require any specific certifications, anyone you work with should have a NJHICL & proper general liability insurance. There are numerous mold certification firms that offer training; any contractor you work with should have mold training and participate in ongoing continuing education.
Many times, areas less than 10 square feet can be cleaned by an individual. If it’s more involved than that, it’s best to get a quote from a mold pro who follows EPA guidelines. Access challenged spaces work well with dry ice treatments where easily accessible basements respond well to traditional “rubbing and scrubbing”. Your particular space will dictate what is best.
We are all going to die (eventually). But there are no known documented death’s from mold toxicity that we are aware of. But the young, old and immuno-compromised individuals are more susceptible to mold related illnesses.
Who did the test? If you used one of those over the counter tests, they recommend that you need a mold professional to interpret the results. Any mold pro should be able to tell you about the molds detected and the water trigger, but you might need to do an additional control test to see if your molds are beyond Normal Fungal Ecology and pose a health risk.
Just give us a call and we can help with the numbers. Of course, its best to have a formal mold assessment / inspection done first delineating mold impacts. But if it appears to be a small issue, we can usually figure it out pretty quickly. There's no fee to prepare a quote if you own your home. For Home Buyers, we have a small fee that we credit back when you engage us.
Rust colored mold on your walls might not be mold at all. There is a type of micro-organism called Iron Bacteria that often gives the appearance of a rust colored mold.
Not really. While sometimes you can have a good idea if a piece of pipe wrap is asbestos or if spot on that wall is mold. But all of these items are microscopic and require some degree of testing to deffinitively identify what they are.
A Basic Mold Sampling package including 3 samples is $495. A thorough assessment including inspection and sampling (LMI) can cost on average $895.
A certified and experienced firm well versed in moisture management and mold remediation. The best inspectors are well experienced in mold rememdiation and know where the mold hides.
Mold inspection is often not necessary. If family members are healthy and there are no visible signs of mold growth then a mold inspection isn't really necessary. But most folks often cant distinguish between mold based health issues and often can't visually spot mold growth. In thos cases its a good idea to have a mold inspection just to be safe.
Most deffinitely. But a basic mold inspection really isn't adequate. When you consider the house has been preped for sale with fresh paint, repairs and a top-to-bottom cleansing, you will need an expert who knows how to find "hidden molds" that often go undetected by basic mold inpsections.
It depends on a few facftors like: access, basement vs attic, finished areas vs. non-finished areas and organisms type (toxic vs. non-toxic. So looks at a range of from $5.00/SF to as much as $25.00/SF (or more).
Black mold tends to grow in patchy / clumped areas. best way to remove it is dispose of the removable items or cut out that area of wall board. Smaller areas less than 5 SF and there are no health issues to worry about are often easily addressed this way.
They are used interchangeably where a Remediation is the removal of molds back to Normal Fungal Ecology. You can't get rid of mold 100%.
Normally no.
Air Quality
Many times we can’t put our finger on exactly what is causing our ill health. But we come to realize that we actually “Feel Better” when we leave our homes for any length of time. This is often the case when hidden biological issues are degrading the homes overall air quality. An environmental air quality professional will be needed.
It’s not unusual to have become so de-sensitized to the aromas associated with your home after living there for decades. Many times folks new to your home will notice the unusual aroma and mention it to you. You should hire a professional and investigate this further as things are not as they always seem to you.
Our nasal cavity and sinus chambers are our primary line of defense in conditioning air as it enters our bodies. Persistent sinus infections are often tied to a hidden environmental stressor that re-exposure to has detrimental health effects. Address the issue before it spreads beyond your sinuses.
There is no one air quality test to cover it all. If its a newer home we would lean towards a chemical test for VOC's. If is an older home with a musty aroma we would test for biologicals.
Best ways to improve Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) are through improving ventilation, air filtration, using low VOC paints and materials and managing moisture levels.
Humidex
The gentle draw of air uses minimal energy and never stops. It affords the space to turn over indoor air several times a day.
Less than you think. Garage units run a few hundred dollars installed where complicated crawl space units with accessory fans and dedicated outlets installed run around $2,500. The basement and patio units run somewhere in between.
The cooler moisture-laden air is dense and hovers on the floor of the basement. The Humidex draws that air in and expels it outside the home. The void left behind fills with conditioned replacement air from upstairs pushing the rest of the bad air towards the ventilator eventually replacing all the air in the basement.
Of course. But if you can wipe the grill cover off at the bottom of the unit and make sure the vent cover outside stays free of debris once or twice a year you can handle it.
Season changes in humidity are common where summertime is the most humid. As we slide into winter ambient humidity levels start to drop and the Humidex responds by sensing the change and sliding into maintenance mode. You even have a "Summer and Winter" setting that you can use to maximize the devices' efforts.
Within a couple of days, you should notice less odors and things starting to dry out. Most folks tell us that within 1-2 weeks the air quality in the space is totally transformed. Of course, every space adjusts differently. But if you have corrected the source of the water intrusion, overall air quality improves very quickly.
Yes. Ventilation is a key component of any central Heating and Cooling system. Unfortunately, ventilation often isn't addressed as adequately. We have found that ventilating the basement not only improves IAQ in the basement but improves it for the entire home by breaking the "Stack Effect." As air warms up it rises which inevitably pulls air up from the crawl space and the basement. As the air cools it falls creating a tight circuit. By ventilating the basement you actually "break the stack effect" and only circulate good conditioned air.
Yes, garages are often non-conditioned spaces full of all sorts of paints, thinners, gasoline cans, car exhaust, etc. Venting these VOC's out of the home keep them from migrating into the home and benefit greatly from being ventilated.
Many times the air in rooms that are not used a lot tend to stagnate. To help keep air circulating think of changing the door to a "slotted door" or by adding "passive air vents" in the wall to allow for air to turn over easier.
Buildings often off-gas Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) tied to the types of building materials. Experts like the EPA agree that building air is some of the most polluted air we breathe. Ventilation helps dilute these VOC's and allows for fresh oxygenated air to be brought in to replace the air that has been depleted by the building occupants. We all need a good supply of clean, fresh air to survive.
Yes, there is a 5-year warranty on the parts.
We have had folks report their Humidex devices last 10, 20, and even 30 years before having any issues. Individual results vary, but you will be excited to hear they last a good long time.
No. Your Humidex is considered a "capital improvement" here in NJ. Just make sure you fill out the ST-8 form your installer should provide you to keep everything on the up-and-up.
Others
Depending on the extent and location of infestation and the potential health risks, its often advisable to stay away while the work is being performed.
The Home Inspection process often does not address asbestos. You have to be a licensed asbestos building inspector to perform this type of work.
It depends on the type of property. Residential homes is $695 + $Hrly Rate after 2 hrs + cost of samples where larger commercial buildings start at $1,800.
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Mold Have You Worried?
