Where Did The Name "French" Drain Came From Anyway?
The term goes by many different names (drain tile, perimeter drain, weeping tile, toe drain, rubble drain, cellar drain, etc.) and was derived from Henry Flagg French’s book titled "Farm Drainage" (1859).
Building science and drainage mechanics have advanced quite a bit since then.
Today’s Drainage Considerations
Buildings constructed today have tighter envelopes making them more energy efficient. But “drafty homes” had better ventilation that had the unintended benefit of addressing elevated moisture issues.
Drainage considerations are more important than ever in today’s tightly sealed environments where modern-day techniques and materials are the norm.
What’s GreenWorks Secret?
There are many Natural Systems to account for when assessing how the Built Environment collides with the Natural Environment. It all starts with the Water Table. Add to that topography, your soil type and soil drainage characteristics, hidden geotechnical features (like substrata, clay lenses, marl, perched water tables, filled wetlands, etc.) and one can see that designing a successful drainage solution gets complicated very quickly.
Frequently Asked Questions
From $35/LF to $75/LF depending on site conditions, mechanics and access.
The deeper you go, the more expensive it gets. But generally speaking, keeping top of French drain 6 inches below grade is often adequate.
To dewater wet areas of your yard or to move water away from your basement to prevent flooding.
Before installing a French Drain, it's always a good idea to know the depth of the water table, the depth to the seasonal high water table, the soil type—topography (pitch) of the yard area, and where to discharge the water too.
The best way to unclog a French Drain is with high-pressure water. Shoot it in on the cleanout end and watch debris flow out. If it doesn't work, you may need a "snake" to break up the clog. Corrugated pipe is difficult as debris gets trapped very easily.
French Drains are installed by digging a trench deep enough to bury your pipe at least 4 inches below grade. The slope of the trench should be 2% (or 1/4 inch per foot) to be able to move solids that collect in the pipe. You will want a clean-out and good area to discharge to, along with good draining material to pack in around your pipe so water can get into the pipe easily.